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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. However, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.